August Wines of the Month

August Wines of the Month

Tier 1

We’re headed to Southern France for a couple of grapes better known from Burgundy – Aligote for the white and Pinot Noir for the red.

This estate, Domaine de Régusse, was founded in 1970. It's in the Haute Provence, at the foot of the Luberon mountain at about 1,500 feet. The farm covers about 750 acres, with 640 in vineyard. They grow 20 different grape varieties. In 2004, the estate obtained the certification "Viticulture Raisonnee Controlee." This process aims to (1) improve the wine by improving the grapes; (2) guarantee quality products and food safety to the consumer; (3) respect the environment, the terroir, the heritage and the traditions.

Domaine de Régusse is imported by Fran Kysela. Fran flat out has one of the best noses for outstanding wines. This estate produces rock-solid wines at great prices!

White

Domaine de Régusse Aligoté 2008 (France) $13.99 – This really impressed us a couple of weeks ago when we tasted it with David from Davine Wines. Excellent wine from an obscure grape from Burgundy! This is refreshing and crisp! It has great acidity (typical for this grape). Flavors and aromas of green apples, lemons and minerals. Food pairing – lobster! Shellfish. Grilled chicken. Salads.

This Vin de Pays de Mediterranée is aged in stainless steel on its lees for 6 months. The lees are the residue in the vat or barrel – leaving the wine in contact with the lees adds richness to the wine.

Aligoté is used to make a dry white wine in Burgundy (specifically in Bourgogne Aligoté AOC). Along with Chardonnay, it’s also used in making Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy’s sparkling wine and a great alternative to pricier Champagne! Traditionally, the cocktail Kir is made by adding cassis to an Aligoté white wine. The grape is grown in Bulgaria, Russia, Ukrainia and Moldova – it’s prized for its acidity and ability to withstand cold temperatures.

Red

Domaine de Regussé Pinot Noir 2008 (France) $13.99 – This is not Burgundy, but it is real nice Pinot Noir! Flavors and aromas of cherries, currents, cranberries, baking spices and cedar. Aromas of leather and earth. A rich and darker Pinot Noir that’s meant to be drunk young!

100% Pinot Noir. Barrel aged. A Vin de Pays des Alpes de Haute Provence. Long-winded way of saying this is a wine from the northern part of Southern France. Food pairing – mushroom and meat dishes, grilled or roasted meats. Dishes with Provencal herbs.

Tier 2 and Tier 3

The wines are from two of my favorite little wineries in Italy – Alois Lageder and Tenuta Sant’ Antonio. Both are in Northeastern Italy – the Alto Adige and Veneto areas.

Justin from Wicked Wines goes to Vin Italy - the biggest wine show in Italy each year. He also pokes around at smaller shows while he is there. It was here that he discovered these wineries. Then he showed them to me!

Alois Lageder

http://www.aloislageder.eu/eng/home.php

This northeastern part of Italy, the Alto Adige, has varied and complex weather conditions. The valleys are surrounded by the huge Dolomite Mountains (which are a former seabed, so the soil is chock full of limestone, sandstone, chalk and minerals – which makes the wines more minerally in their flavors and aromas).

The winery earned Demeter biodynamic certification in 2007. All the vineyards are biologically and sustainably farmed and have been since 2004 (as Lageder says, “We don’t use biodynamics as commercial or marketing, we do it because it has to be done.”). They built a new winery, using all natural materials. The vineyards and winery have produced 0% emissions from fossil fuels since the 1990’s (they use solar power for 60% of their electricity needs).

They farm 125 acres of vineyards and these are home to 15 grape varietals – many indigenous to Italy.

The Lageder family has been making wine for over 150 years. Alois Lageder’s great-grandfather founded the winery in Bolzano in 1855. In 1934, the family acquired the Löwengang estate in Magrè. In following years, the family continued to purchase vineyards in Alto Adige.

The vineyards here are planted on steep slopes between 750 feet and 3,200 feet in elevation. The vineyards face south, east and west to get as much sun as possible. The area’s soil is loaded with limestone, sandstone, chalk, etc. Precisely the best soil to make the best grapes!

Tier 2

White

Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Dolomiti 2007 (Italy) $15.99 – The grapes for this wine are grown at an altitude of 980-1,650 feet. The nights are quite cool with large swings in temperature from night to day. The vines are 5-30 years old. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on the lees (the residue in the vat from the fermentation) for 3 months. Aging on lees adds richness and complexity to the wines. This is drinking beautifully right now and will aged well for 2-4 years.

Aromas of honey, green apples & peaches. Flavors of tart green apples, white grapefruit, and crisp pears. Dry, crisp and great minerals in the flavors. Medium-bodied and mouth-filling. Refreshing. Nice length on the finish. Zippy, tangy acidity. Food pairing – salads, asparagus, seafood of all kinds, pasta dishes. Wine Spectator, 88 points

Red

Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Monta Garbi Valpolicella Superior DOC Ripasso 2006 (Italy) $22.99 – The grapes for this Ripasso are crushed immediately after harvesting and undergo a 2nd fermentation on the Amarone skins in January. This adds Amarone-like notes and richness to the wine. It is then aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. The “Slow Food” Italian publication raves over this wine and rates it a great value!

Ruby red color. Aromas of red berries and red cherries. Texture is soft and smooth. Spicy finish. Food pairing – pastas with meat sauces, grilled poultry, roasted meats and aged cheeses.

The vines are pruned early in the growing season – reducing the yield and exposing the grape clusters to greater sunshine. The grapes are hand-picked from early Sept. – latter October.

Vineyard is at about 1,000 feet. Vines are 20 years old. Blend of 70% Corvina/Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Croatina/Oseleta. The wine is stirred in the barrels for the first 9 months – this adds richness and texture to the wine. 15-16 months in 500-litre tonneaux barrels – 30% new and 70% 1 or 2 years old. 12,500 cases made. This will age for 10 years.

The Castagnedi brothers (4 of them) run this winery. Quality is their priority. In the 1980’s, the family bought more vineyards (about doubling in size) and dramatically changed its vineyard practices – opting for much higher quality and lower quantity of grapes. The neighboring height is Monta Garbi, which is also the name of this wine and the cellars. In 2001, they poured out their Amarone – it wasn’t the quality they demand.

As the French saying goes, good wine is obtained in proportion to one vine to one bottle – at Tenuta Sant’ Antonio, it’s 2 vines per bottle!

Tier 3

White

Alois Lageder Vogelmaier Moscato Giallo 2007 (Italy) $25.99 – This is one of the best dry Muscats made anywhere! From the Vogelmaier vineyard on the northwest side of Lake Caldaro (880 foot altitude).

Fresh, clean aromas with distinct floral notes, tropical fruit, white pepper, coriander, honey and beeswax. Medium-bodied. Dry. Flavors of grapefruit, lemon, tropical fruit and honey. Good “zip” to this wine because of the acidity. Great length on the finish – which has a lot of minerals. 100% Yellow Muscat. Single vineyard from the Vogelmaier vineyard on the northwest side of Lake Caldaro at an altitude of 880 feet. Fermented in stainless steel. Aged on the lees for 4 months (this adds richness and texture to the wine). 1,775 cases made. This will age well for 3-5 years. Food pairing – sausages, patés, grilled fish, Asian food, cheeses.

Red

Alois Lageder Cor Römigberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Italy) $39.99 - Deep, dark color. Aromas of cherries, blackcurrants, mint, tobacco (this is a good aroma – we’re talking curing tobacco, not cigarette smoke), some meatiness and oaky spice. Powerful wine. Rich and big, but also elegant. Lots of dark fruit and spice in the flavors. Big, bold finish. Silkier than most Bordeaux. This doesn’t whimper into the night! Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. From the Römigberg estate vineyard on Lake Caldaro at about 800 feet. The vineyard was planted in 1986. Fermented in stainless steel for 17 days and then aged in French oak (Alliers and Nevers), of which 2/3 is new. 920 cases made. Food pairing – red meat, lamb, venison, aged cheeses.

The Other!

Chateau de Trinquvedel Tavel Rosé 2008 (France) $22.99 - hey....that's a lotta money for a rosé! Well....this is a WHOLE LOTTA WINE! It's a nice rich salmon color. Aromas of red berries, flowers, minerals, anise, smoke, tea and tobacco (this is a GOOD aroma - it's the smell of curing tobacco, not stale cigarette smoke!). Flavors of cherries, raspberries, spices, dried herbs and anise. Finishes strong and with a bit of a slight bitter tartness - this is not a fruity pink wine! Blend of 44% Grenache, 28% Cinsault, 15% Clairette and small amounts of Grenache Blanc, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc. Food pairing - robust dishes with garlic, Provencal herbs and black olives!

The name of the chateau comes from the Provencal words "tranca" (cut) and "vedel" (calf). Methinks a calf met his/her demise there! Today, the 4th generation of the family is running the winery. Tavel is in the Southern Rhône - it's just to the northwest of Avignon. It's unusual in that it's the only area in France that only permits rosés to be made and named after the appellation. 1,500 cases imported. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 90 points

Wine Tasting featuring Kysela Wines

Wine Tasting Featuring Wines from Kysela Imports

".....one of the finest palates and selectors of top wine....., Robert Parker"

The Tasting

Wednesday, Oct. 22nd

Where: Hilton Garden Inn, Park Street, Freeport (that's just across the railroad tracks and around the corner from my store)
When: 5:00-7:00pm, Wed., Oct. 22nd (if you can't be there right at 5:00, don't worry....show up when you can)
Cost: $10/person
RSVP: Please call Freeport Cheese & Wine to reserve a spot – 865-3993; it is okay to just show up, but it helps us to prepare if you callWe are thrilled about this event!

The tasting features wines from one of the best importers of wines in the United States, Fran Kysela Pere et Fils. Robert Parker says about Fran Kysela, “…One of the finest palates and selectors of top wine….” Patterson’s Beverage Journal, in October 2006, called Kysela, “…America’s Next Top Wine Importer.”

The tasting features wines from Kysela Imports and Davine Wines, their Maine Distributor. Leading the tasting is Robert Jones, the national sales manager for Kysela Peres et Fils.

Robert is one of only 160 Master Sommeliers in the WORLD. He's forgotten more about wine than most people ever know! At the same time, he is down to earth, fun, friendly and informative – he treats wine the way it should be treated - a fun beverage that can improve a meal or an event! If you really want to learn about wine, this tasting is the place to be!

The Wines

The Sparkling:

Charles Duret Crémant de Bourgogne (France) $19.99 – Have you checked Champagne prices lately? THROUGH THE ROOF! Crémant de Bourgogne is a “newly” designated wine area in France – 1975. The sparkling wines from Crémant are made in the same fashion as Champagne (secondary fermentation in the bottle – “Méthode Champenoise”).

This is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Delicate, long-lasting bubbles that are just like Champagne’s…..this is a “Blanc de Noirs” because it has a red skinned grape in it and is a white wine. This has those hazelnut aromas that remind me of many champagnes. Food pairing – great as a sparkling wine for a party or reception or with foods with creamy wine sauce.

Kerisac Sparkling Cider NV (France) $10.99 - This is tasty! The cider is produced from these five following types of apples: Kermerien (bitter), Bedan (sweet), Douce-Moën (bitter-sweet), Petit Jaune and Avrolles (acidulous). This cider is from Brittany in northwesternmost France. This special cuvée is low in alcohol (only 2.5%). Food pairing - Refreshing and fruity, it is ideal as an aperitif and excellent when poured over desserts and sherbets.

The Whites:

Saumaize Michelin St. Veran “Les Creches” 2006 (France) Reg. $32.99 Sale $29.99 – if you ever wanted to know what “stirring of the lees” means, look at this picture! (4th picture down). You’ll also see some gorgeous photos of Burgundy and an awesome cliff!

This small estate has about 45 acres of Chardonnay and 1 acre of Gamay (for Mâcon Rouge). All of the wines are 100% barrel fermented (10-25% new barrels per vintage) and go through 100% malolactic fermentation. They make about 3,800 cases of wine per vintage. The family estate is owned by Roger and Christine Saumaize-Michelin. They built new cellars in 1991. Anthony Dias Blue, in his “Pocket Guide to Wine 2006,” says of Roger Saumaize, “(he’s a) “….meticulous vineyardist and skilled winemaker, makes Mâcon whites…..dense and rich for the region, they behave more like great Côte de Beaunes.”

Elegant and fruity nose with great minerality. Round, rich, fresh and well balanced. You notice this wine is aged on its lees. Aromas of apples, pears, baking spices and citrus peel. The apple notes pick up in the flavors. From vines in Davaye and planted in limestone-based soils. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 89 points

Domaine de Régusse Aligoté 2007 (France) $13.99 – This wine estate is at about 1,500 feet in altitude. The winery is in the Alpes de Haute Provence, at the start of the Luberon Mountain Range, about 50 miles from Marseilles. It is certified “Viticulture Raisonee Controlee,” which is very close to organic viticulture (it means that they intervene in the vineyard only when necessary). Think of this as going to the doctor to deal with strep throat or a heart murmur – dealing with a specific health issue in a specific way. This estate produces Aligoté and Pinot Noir, 2 grapes best suited to the cooler climates of Burgundy – so you get an idea that the climate here is not the “hot” South of France. Aligoté is the “other” white grape from Burgundy. Crisp, fresh and fruity wine. Nice acidity. I might call it a refreshing cross between a good Sauvignon Blanc and a Chablis. Food pairing – shellfish, grilled chicken, salads or by itself.

Wolfberger Edelzwicker 2007 (France) $15.99 - With a Master Sommelier on hand, we had to head to Alsace! This is a good tasting blend from Alsace and given that it is in a one Liter bottle (1/3 more wine), an even better value! Aromas of almonds, walnuts, minerals & citrus fruit. Flavors of fresh lemons, grass, minerals and a hint of spice. Blend of Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Sylvancer and Chasselas. Each of the grape varietals is picked individually (early-mid October). Food pairing - fresh salads, smoked fish, freshwater fish, shellfish, seafood, ham and more! Drinks well on its own! GREAT with THANKSGIVING DINNER!

Château Vessière Costières de Nîmes Grenache – Roussanne 2007 (France) $16.99 - Wonderful blend from Southern France! Aromas and flavors of peaches, citrus, white flowers, minerals and honey. On the finish, there is grapefruit and honeysuckle (that honey/honeysuckle is the Roussanne). Round, soft, rich wine. Great acidity that balances the fruit. 85% Roussanne and 15% Grenache Blanc. 7th generation winery. The Ancient Greeks revered wines from this site….as did the Romans. Food pairing - seafood, shellfish, salads, creamy pasta dishes.

The Reds:

Gourt de Mautens Cotes du Rhône Villages Rasteau 2005 (France) $79.99 – This is a bottle you will want to age and cellar. This is not for drinking now! You will do yourself and the wine a disservice! It needs at least 6-7 years right now and could go 15-20 years and still be peaking!

This is considered an “insider’s wine” – generally, you have to know someone to get this. Not much is made – 1,700 cases. Little is imported to the United States – 100 cases. 20 cases are in Maine. Less than that are available today!

Winemaker Jérôme Bressy farms just over 20 acres of vines. He is fanatical about grape quality. He farms organically. While his old-vine vineyard naturally has low yields, he pushes them lower by “green harvesting” to increase the quality even more.

This is one of the best estates in Rasteau. The REVUE DU VIN DE FRANC, France’s famous wine magazine, enthusiastically called Bressy “the new star of the Rhône!” In the “Bible” of French wine writing, Le Grand Guide des Vins de France, famed French wine reviewers Bettane & Desseauve call Gourt de Mautens “one of the best of the French wineries,” and they put it at the same level as the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape wineries Chateau Rayas and Domaine Henri Bonneau – yes, they are equating a Cotes du Rhône Villages from Rasteau with legendary Châteaneuf-du-Pape wineries!

Jerome Bressy – in his own words:

"I’m willing to make the best possible wine and to equal the great wine makers. To do so, I’m always trying new things and I am always questioning myself. I’m not one to make the same wine year after year, there must be an evolution and sometime even a revolution! That’s why one could be surprised tasting the difference between two vintage years of Gourt de Mautens. Nothing’s for granted on the path to perfection, I keep on learning and expressing new things. Each year I try to make the best of what the vine has to offer. But it all depends on nature, on the earth, the weather, and I try to feel that and do the best out from that osmosis.”

The wine:

Beautiful blackberry and black cherry fruits, licorice and spice. Notes of earth, chocolate, pepper…..a little of that Old World dusty rusticity. Right now, this wine is tannic and MASSIVE! You are going to have to think about this one and WONDER what it will taste like in 6-15 years!

Unfiltered. Unfined. Natural yeast. Aged 12 months in demi-muids (300 liter barrels) and foudres (large barrels); then 18 months in concrete vats (these are lined so you aren’t tasting cement). The 2005 harvest was bottled in June 2008 (30 months of aging). 1,700 cases made. This wine is made for LONG-TERM cellaring and aging. It develops very slowly and 2005 was an EXCEPTIONAL vintage. Blend of 70% old-vine Grenache with the rest Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 92+ points (tasted from the barrel)

Domaine de la Mordorée

Fran Kysela calls this “arguably the top estate in our Portfolio. Domaine de la Mordorée (woodcock), located in the town of Tavel, in the Southern Rhône Valley, is the most consistent producer of top quality wine in my entire selection.”

Robert Parker, in his book, The World’s Greatest Wine Estates, says of Domaine de la Mordoree, “Christophe Delorme’s objective as a winemaker is to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces. His dream is to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and flavors. Delorme seems to be moving in the direction of biodynamic farming. He represents the best of an enlightened approach to winemaking that has one foot in the traditions of the past and one in the future” (if the print on that linked page looks small, click on the little icon at the bottom of the page).

This winery practices “culture raisonee” in the vineyards, which is very close to organic viticulture (it means that they intervene in the vineyard only when necessary). Think of this as going to the doctor to deal with strep throat or a heart murmur – dealing with a specific health issue in a specific way.

We are tasting 2 wines from this estate:

Domaine de la Mordorée “La Dame Rousse” Lirac Rouge 2005 (France) Reg. $29.99 Sale $24.99 – This is a beautiful wine – I find it both elegant and powerful! Aromas and flavors of black raspberries, figs, licorice, smoky meat, minerals, red and dark fruit…..This is medium-to-full bodied, but not overpowering. Equal parts Grenache and Syrah from 40 year-old vines. 100% destemmed grapes. You’ll be able to age this for another 5-8 years. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 90 points; Wine Spectator, 90 points; Wine Review Online, 91 points

Domaine de la Mordorée “Renaissance” Rouge 2005 (France) $14.99 – This has a deep red color. Loads of blackberries, raspberries and flowers (violets) on the nose. In terms of the flavors and feel, this is rich and big and has the same red and dark berries as in the aromas. Well-balanced tannins and acidity. Blend of 50% Marselan (a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache) and 50% Merlot. Food pairing – most any grilled and/or red meats. Awesome with game birds! Rich mushroom dishes. Hearty stews.

Les Hauts de la Brune Côteaux du Languedoc Saint Felix-Saint Jean 2005 (France) $14.99 – This shows lots of ripe, fresh fruit – cherries, raspberries and red plums. It picks up some blackberries, licorice and a little earth. Some spices. Clean and pure! The tannins are smooth. Blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. They destem the grapes and age them in concrete tanks after stainless steel fermentation.

S.C.V. Castelmaure Col de Vents Corbières Rouge 2006 (France) $12.99 – This winery makes 90% red wine – 80% is A.O.C. Corbières. The A.O.C. Corbières was created in 1985. This winery is a “co-op.” It has 65 members and it dates to the 1920’s. It’s in the unofficial Corbières cru site of Durban (11 unofficial Cru’s in Corbières)….Durban will become an official cru along with Alaric and Boutenac. This area is protected from weather systems off the Mediterranean Sea by mountains to the south. This winery takes quality seriously. This wine – 50% Carignan, 35% Grenache and 15% Syrah. Aromas of blueberries, cherries, raspberries, spices and black pepper. Long, smooth finish. Easy drinking but still with complexity! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 87 points