November 20, 2007

This is from an earlier tasting - back in January 2007. I thought I'd post my notes from this great event tasting wonderful Italian wines!
Italian Wine Tasting
Featuring 2 Star Winemakers from Piedmont
& 6 of their wines!

Wednesday, Jan. 24th
6:00 - 7:30pm
Hilton Garden Inn
5 Park Street, Freeport, ME
$10/person
Call Freeport Cheese & Wine at 865-3993 to reserve a seat

The wines of Piedmont, especially Barolos, are world-renowned. This week, we will have 2 top winemakers from Piedmont here in Freeport showcasing their wines, Mauro Veglio and Gianfranco Alessandria. They are cousins and each of them leads a small winery.

This is a rare treat - we don't often get many winemakers in Maine - and it's rare to get two of the top Barolo producers here at the same time - we want to thank Ned Swain of Devenish Wines from helping put this together. These winemakers produce world-class wines!

The tasting is at the Hilton Garden Inn because Maine law only permits a retail store to have one wine tasting per month. There is a small fee, $10, to taste this flight of 6 wines - restaurants and bars are not permitted to give away alcohol in Maine. Bear in mind, 3 of these wines will retail for approximately $60/bottle - so, $10 is a small price to pay for an opportunity to taste such great wines!

The Hilton Garden Inn has a wonderful bar that is comfortable and a perfect venue for a small event such as this!

What will we taste?

2 Barolos, one Dolcetto, 2 Barbera d'Albas and a wine unique to only 8 winemakers in Barolo, L'Insieme!

We are thrilled and pleased that we can share these wines with you and offer you the opportunity to meet these two wonderful winemakers! The L'Insieme is a unique wine in the Langhe - it is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. Each year, 8 Barolo winemakers produce their own versions of L'Insieme....and at least $120,000 of the proceeds from the wine are donated to charities around the world. It is internationally known and respected as a wonderful, unique wine from Piedmont!

The Wines!
(you may buy any of these wines from Freeport Cheese & Wine)

Mauro Veglio Dolcetto d'Alba 2005 - $15.99 - Excellent wine! Aromas of plums, flowers, almonds and earth. Medium-bodied. Light, firm tannins. Medium-length finish. Drink now through 2008. 1,000 cases made.

Mauro Veglio Barbera d'Alba 2005 - $17.99 - a soft, ripe, medium-bodied red that tastes wonderful! Soft mouthfell. Easy-going wine with a lot of layers. Delicious. Flavors of passion fruit, red berries and minerals. Bright, fresh finish! Drink now. 700 cases made.

Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2000 - $59.99 - This is AWESOME with a capital "A." Aromas of blackberries, cherries, plums, eucalyptus, leather, flowers and spices. Full-bodied. Lots of intensity. Rich fruit and mineral flavors. Good tannic structure. Big, chewy and elegant! From a single vineyard in Monforte. 500 cases made. This wine will be long-lived and it is still a baby in terms of age. Should last through 2015, at least. Wine Spectator, 92 points; Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 90 points; Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 91 points

Gianfranco Alessandria Barbera d'Alba 2005* - this is a delicious wine! Aromas of red and dark berries, earth and smoke. Medium-to-full bodied. Balanced acidity. Minerals on the finish along with fresh fruit. Drink now. 450 cases made.

Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo 2001* - Excellent wine! Aromas of flowers, spices, toasted oak and berries. Flavors of cherry, leather, anise, earth and tar. Firm tannins. Full-bodied. Chewy. Long and powerful. Juicy finish. Like most Barolos, this is just beginning to mature. Drink now - 2015. 300 cases made. Wine Spectator, 91 points

Gianfranco Alessandria L'Insieme 2003* - This is an awesome wine! Aromas and flavors of raspberries, licorice, mocha, chocolate and vanilla. Medium-bodied. Chewy tannins. Red and dark fruit and vanilla on the long finish. Blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. 100 cases made.

*We will have prices for the Gianfranco Wines at the tasting (the Barbera is probably in the teens, the Barolo and the L'Insieme will be $60, give or take some money.
The Wines of Piedmont

Piedmont produces many wines - Barbera d'Alba, Nebbiolo Langhe, Dolcetto d'Alba, Barbaresco, Moscato d'Asti, and, of course, the legendary Barolo.

These wines all represent different styles of wine. Barbera d'Alba is generally lighter (but, some Barberas are big, full-bodied wines), with lots of bracing acidity, a zippy quality, often rustic notes and bright fresh fruit. Nebbiolo (the grape of the Langhe, Barbaresco and Barolo) produces wines that are often light in color, but powerful in terms of flavors and aromas. Nebbiolo, like Pinot Noir, is a grape that is very sensitive to terroir, and the smallest changes in soil, altitude, micro-climate, etc., will produce a significantly different wine.

In the 1980's, the legendary Elio Altare began the winemaking revolution that has brought Barolo to such prominence. As the years passed, he has mentored winemakers such as Mauro Veglio. Without Elio Altare, we wouldn't see such great wines from Barolo.

Our Winemakers

Mauro Veglio

Like most families in the Langhe, the Veglios were "contadino," or farmers, who sold their grapes to the local cooperative. That generally meant a great harvest equalled more grapes and quality didn't matter as much....they made wine...but, not a lot (and most was made for personal consumption)...the wines they made had to take a back seat to other farming tasks - harvesting the grain, olives, gathering firewood, etc.

Mauro and Daniela Veglio wanted to raise the quality of their grapes and their wines. At Elio Altare's urging, they did. In 1992, they started producing wines under their own label. Veglio studied well under Altare - as his Barolos are widely respected. They farm sustainably. To improve quality, they dramatically reduce yields in the vineyards. They built a new winery and began using better winemaking techniques. They utilize shorter maceration periods, rotor-fermenters, temperature-controlled fermentation & aging in French oak barriques. They make refined, elegant wines!

Gianfranco Alessandria

Gianfranco took over managing his family's farm in 1986, after the passing of his father. He continued the family's practice of selling off his grapes from the 5.5 hectares of vineyard land his father had amassed. At the end of the 1980's, at the urging of his cousin, Mauro Veglio, he began bottling small portions of his harvest. The first Barolo came with the 1993 vintage, which was awarded "Three Glasses" (the highest award), by Italy's leading wine publication, Gambero Rosso.

The new winery, which is attached to their home, was finished in 1996, and that was the first year of full production. While modernizing the facilities refined the winemaking, it did not change Alessandria's belief that the land of Monforte d'Alba and the vines are what produce the best grapes....so, like his cousin, he practices sustainable agriculture, minimizing his influence on the soil and land. He produces stunning wines!

November 16, 2007

Hello,

Robert Parker just dropped 91 points on one of my favorite wines. I hate it when he does this on a $15 or under wine that I "discovered."

Why?

It disappears from the market and then when it reappears the price is higher. Why?

Supply-and-demand. And, too many consumers give more credit to Parker's opinion than their own and more to Parker's opinion than my opinion (if you like a jammy, peppery Zinfandel, I'm not recommending an earthy Cotes-du-Rhone to you, regardless of the "points;" if you like an oaky, buttery Chardonnay, I don't care how many points Parker gives a Chablis - could be the wrong wine for you!).

I love this wine! Period.

Parker could give it 99 points or 65 points (how often have you read a wine review below 85 points - makes one wonder about those scores, doesn't it?).

On Wednesday, I tasted a wine from an importer I generally like that Parker gave 90 points. Veggie, green veggies, is the one thought I left from tasting this wine. Not good green veggies. I cycled back to this wine 3 times over 60 minutes and tasted 2 different bottles. Veggies. Green veggies. If you like green bell peppers dominating your wine, I just found it for you! My point - points don't matter that much. Wine does. Tasting the bottle over time matters.

We showed Mas Carlot "Les Enfants Terribles" to great acclaim at our October wine tasting. Doug and Cat, who own SOPO (South Portland Wine Company), have no more than 14 cases of this wine.

From this e-mail, those 14 cases will be gone by 6pm on Friday, Nov. 16th.

Mas Carlot “Les Enfants Terribles” Costières de Nimes Syrah & Mourvèdre 2005 (France) $14.99 - I LOVE this! Complex, robust, tasty! Aromas & flavors of rocky, mineral soil, leather, dark berries, dark plums, black cherries, anise, earth, smoke. Layers & layers - that's probably why it speaks to me so! Everything is well-put-together. Well-balanced. Medium-to-full-bodied. This screams & defines "terroir" - that sense of place that I think wine should have! Half is aged in new oak. Will drink well thru 2009-10. Food pairing - lamb with rosemary, beef, rich mushroom dishes, etc. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 91 points

That's the wine.

If you want some and want it at the tasting on Friday, call or e-mail!

Thanks!

Eric

November 15, 2007

October 2007 Wines of the Month

October Wines of the Month

&

The Concept of Terroir


Ah....what is "terroir?" We'll get to that a little later on!

All of the wines for this month come from Rosenthal Wine Merchant (RWM). Neal Rosenthal is widely considered the foremost importer of French wines into the USA, as well as one of the top importers of Italian wines.

Newsweek wrote an article in 2003 about Neal Rosenthal's single-minded pursuit and support of winemakers who are bucking the trend of producing "copycat" wines designed to score high.

"Rosenthal maintains that "terroir is built on the notion that a certain piece of land and its particular climate is best suited to certain grapes and approaches. But the most delicious and layered wines take time to discover: hundreds, if not thousands of years."

Rosenthal has said, "Californian wines may be technically perfect but who cares? I want perfection in my software programs, not my friends or my wine."

Each year, RWM visits each grower twice - to follow the evolution of each wine and the development of each estate. Rosenthal is highly particular about the quality of its winemakers, preferring to deal with tiny, hands-on producers.

Rosenthal does not pick a wine or an appellation (winemaking area) because it is "hot." Rather, they look for high quality first-and-foremost.

You will pay for this quality - rarely are Rosenthal wines the least expensive wines from a given area. They are often the best - and, they pack a lot of value into a bottle.

Rosenthal looks for wines that show quality and character. The portfolio remains rather consistent - rarely does a producer get added or subtracted. This is because of the care Rosenthal takes when picking a producer and the hands-on partnership he has with each producer.

The Concept of Terroir

What is "terroir?"

Over the last 25 years, the wine business has boomed. Huge amounts of money have been invested in this business. By-and-large, the result has been better wine, at all price levels.

At the same time, the trend in the wine world has been to chase ever higher scores from a small number of reviewers (Robert Parker, the Wine Spectator, etc.). The result has been a merging of winemaking styles so that many wines (regardless of where it's made) are beginning to taste alike.

At its core, this runs counter to the idea of "terroir" - and it runs completely counter to the entire premise behind the wines Neil Rosenthal selects and imports.

To make outstanding wine, one must start with a proper vineyard site and have excellent viticultural practices. 90% of the ultimate wine is created in the vineyard; and, the role of the winemaker is to let the wine make itself.

Wine is an agricultural product. Its flavor and characteristics bear the influence of the soil and climate and how those work with the grape variety. Neil Rosenthal believes firmly that wine should show its "local" characteristics.

So, with all that said, let's look at this month's "terroir- expressive wines!

The Wines!

Tier 1 - $9-15/bottle

We're off to Bordeaux and the Rhone Valley.

The White:

Chateau La Rame Bordeaux Blanc 2006 (Bordeaux, France) $14.99 - This wine has the slate, flinty minerality that is a hallmark of the best wines from the region and from Graves! The Armand family regards the 2006 as the best vintage of the last decade (and that includes the legendary 2000's and 2005's).

Aromas of slate and flint and bright, ripe tropical fruits and gree apples. The flavors reflect the flinty mineraity and also show nice notes of apples, tropical fruits and white stone fruits. The Semillon adds a smooth, soft richness to the wine towards the end. This is medium-bodied and has a nice long finish. Food pairing - simple white fish, such as sole, sea bass or halibut. Roast chicken, Thanksgiving dinner.90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Semillon. The Armand family seeks extreme ripeness for its grapes, so the harvest is entirely done by hand and requires multiple passes through the vineyard over a period of weeks.

The vineyard is on the East Bank of the Garonne River, directly across from the commune of Graves, approximately 25 miles southeast of the city of Bordeaux. The 20 hectares (approximately 50 acres) of Chateau La Rame are on a clay-limestone soil that is blessed with an unusual substratum of a bed of fozzilized oysters! The hillside vineyards overlook the river and face fully to the south as they slope down towards the river. The vineyards are 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc and the vines average 45 years of age.

This is the appellation of Sainte Croix du Mont. Yves Armand and his family have set out to reestablish Sainte Croix du Mont as an appellation of merit to rival the great estates of Sauternes and Barsac.

The Red:

Domaine Monpertuis Vignoble de la Ramiere Cuvee Counoise 2005 (France) $14.99 - 100% Counoise! That's the grape!

This is a chance to taste a really good wine made by a GREAT winemaker whose Chateauneuf-du-Papes sell for $40-$100/bottle! We have 2 of his wines in Tier 3 and "the other" this month. Winemaker Paul Jeune (one of the LEGENDS in Chateauneuf-du-Pape - "CNP" - his family has produced "CNP" for 6 generations) expanded his holdings in the Southern Rhone when he bought the "Vignoble de La Ramiere" vineyard on the western side of the Rhone across the river from Chateaneuf in the village of Rochegude in 1995.

Being on the west side of the river takes this vineyard out of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and most of it is outside of the Cotes-du-Rhone appellation, so this is a "lowly" "Vin du Pays du Gard." It's "lowly" status as a Vin du Pays keeps the price of this superb wine low! I always say great winemakers make good wine regardless of price - and Paul Jeune is a great winemaker and this is just good wine!

Counoise is one of the 13 grapes that may be used to produce Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It is reminiscent of blackberries when it is ripe.

The 2005 vintage of this wine is fabulous. The grapes were definitely ripe, as this wine just explodes with ripe blackberry aromas! It also exudes comfortable warmth as the aromas include notes of soft, rich black earth just shoveled up in the garden! The flavors are blackberries and more blackberries, including the "seedy" qualities that ripe berries have. At the end, the rich dark earth circles around and also has notes of mushrooms or truffles buried in the blackberry fruit. Food pairing - most any grilled and/or red meats. Awesome with game birds! Rich mushroom dishes. Hearty stews.

Tier 2 - $16-24/bottle

Both the red and the white are from Beaujolais this month - neither of these wines bears any resemblence to the "candied" fruit flavors of a Beaujolais Nouveau. The red is a "Cru du Beaujolais" from Julienas. The white is from the village of Leynes, the northernmost village in Beaujolais, just south of Maconnais in Burgundy proper. If there is ever an 11th "Cru," it will be Leynes.

Pascal Granger is the winemaker for both of these wines. He was born in 1961 and his family has been making wine for 200 years in Beaujolais.

Cru du Beaujolais comes from 10 villages - (1) Brouilly, (2) Cote du Brouilly, (3) Chiroubles, (4) Saint Amour, (5) Chenas, (6) Julienas - named for Julius Caeser, (7) Morgon, (8) Regnie, the newest "cru," (9) Fleurie - these wine have distinct floral aromas, hence "Fleurie," is the biggest rival to Moulin-a-Vent's status, and (10) Moulin-a-Vent, the most esteemed of the "Crus."

You will see the name of the village on the label of a Cru. You likely will not see the word Beaujolais - at least not in in letters. This is tradition because a Morgon is different from a Fleurie which differs from a Julienas.

Over 99% of the wine made in Beaujolais is red; so, it is unusual to have a Beaujolais Blanc!

The White:

Pascal Granger "La Jacarde" Beaujolais Blanc 2006 (France) $18.99 - Beaujolais Blanc is Chardonnay.

This is the first vintage of this wine from Pascal Granger, who has been making fabulous Cru Beaujolais in Julienas, Chenas and Moulin-a-Vent for years.

Granger purchased this tiny vineyard, "Clos de la Jacarde" a few years ago. It is mostly Gamay vines, but it includes 2 rows of Chardonnay grapes. The village of Leynes, where this vineyard sits, is just outside the area of Fuisse, of Pouilly-Fuisse fame in Burgundy.

This is not a fruity or oaky Chardonnay. This is a "poor man's" Chablis and it packs the similar mineral leanness and cut that is a hallmark of true Chablis.

Think of this as a sleek, racy thoroughbred. The soil in this vineyard is granite and this wine shows that quality. This wine is complex with minerals and a "cut" to it that defines Chablis. It's racy, crisp and lean with amazing complexity to it. Food pairing - shellfish, white fish, oysters and mussels.

The Red:

Pascal Granger Julienas 2005 (France) $18.99 - Anyone who loves good Burgundy and good Pinot Noir, needs to think again about Beaujolais if the candied, bubblegum flavors of Nouveau has turned you away from Beaujolais! Cru Beaujolais is a great value!

Wines from the Julienas and Fleurie "crus" have silky textures. They aren't lightweight, but they are not as tannic and heavy as many Morgons. This is CLASSIC Gamay (the Beaujolais grape) and CLASSIC Julienas!

Brilliant dark red color. Aromas of vibrant dark fruit - lots of blackberries and some raspberries. Notes of violets and white pepper. Flavors of rich dark fruit! This is lush, with great weight and depth to it. Soft tannins. Long juicy finish with great acidity. Food pairing - roast chicken, Thanksgiving Dinner, mushroom dishes, etc.

This is fermented like it is a Burgundy - there is no carbonic maceration - which is a style of fermentation generally used in Beaujolais. This is a technique in which the grapes are not crushed. Rather they are placed whole in the stainless steel vat and the weight of thousands of pounds of grapes crushes the bottom grapes and fermentation begins - which eventually breaks the skin on all the grapes. This wine is fermented in open top cement vats. The grapes are hand-picked, destemmed and crushed. The wine is then placed in barrels and aged before bottling. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 90 points.

Tier 3 - $25-55/bottle

We are in Burgundy and Chateauneuf-du-Pape for Tier 3.

The White:

Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Chaumes" 2003 (France) $54.99 - This is drinking just beautifully right now!

This wine is an example of what a skilled winemaker is capable of when confronted with both extreme heat and drought. Despite the heat which led to overripe fruit - which in turn led to lesser winemakers producing overly alcoholic wines that were too "hot" for Burgundy, Jean-Marc was able to produce classic Chassagne-Montrachet!

It has a creamy texture and shows the faint nutmeg, brown spice, cream and butter aromas and flavors that are hallmarks of true Chassagne-Montrachet. This shows just light hints of oak as it is fermented in 3-, 4- and 5-year oak barrels. Food pairing - roasted chicken, Thanksgiving Dinner, lobster, scallops, etc.

This vineyard is located just below the highly esteemed Premier Cru vineyard of Les Champs-Gain. It is in the very heart of the Chassagne commune. Most of the vines are 25-50 years old.

Jean-Marc Pillot recently took over the reins at this family-owned winery from his father, Jean, who is still actively helping in the vineyards and winemaking.

Jean-Marc is recognized for using new oak "juste comme il faut," that is, "just enough. The white wines are fermented in oak barrels, but Jean-Marc never uses more than 25% new wood - he doesn't want to overwhelm the intensity of the fruit and the sense of terroir. Batonnage is done to enrich the whites (batonnage is the stirring up of the lies or residue at the bottom of the barrels), but it is not exaggerated. The wines are aged 12-18 months in the bottle and are bottled unfiltered to preserve their purity.

The Red:

Both the Tier 3 Red and the "Other" come from Domaine Monpertuis - and both are Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge.

The Domaine de Monpertuis has been in the Jeune Family for 6 generations. Each successive owner has added bits and pieces to the estate. Today, Paul Jeune owns 10 acres in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, as well as property in the Cotes du Rhone and Vin de Pays du Gard.

The majority of Jeune's CNP vineyards contain vines that are 60-110 years old. The rest are 20-to-60 years old. So, he has a wealth of "old-vine" fruit to use. The heart-and-soul of the Jeune holdings are in La Croze, Le Clos de la Cerise and Monpertuis.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape may contain any of 13 individual grape varietals. Jeune relies heavily on Grenache. The "Cuvee Classique" is usually 70-85% Grenache with Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault providing the balance. The "Cuvee Tradition," produced only from vines that are at least 60 years old and even then, it's only produced in the best years, is at least 85% Grenache.

All grapes are hand-harvested. They are not destemmed. It is aged in large "foudres" (really big oak barrels) for 18-24 months after the harvest and bottled approximately 2 years after the harvest. It's bottled without filtration.

Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" 2005 (France) $44.99 - Truly a great red from an awesome vintage from a great winemaker!

This wine combines both power and elegance with expressive bright red berry fruit!

Aromas of fresh raspberries and strawberries backed up with great mineral notes. Flavors of wild berries, red currants, Soft, smooth tannins at the finish and a lot of red fruit at the end!

Food pairings - beef, steak, lamb, roasted meats and grilled meats, bold mushroom dishes, etc. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 91-94 points

The Others:

Domaine Monpertuis Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Tradition" 2005 (France) $79.99 - This is a POWERHOUSE of a Chateauneuf-du-Pape! Paul Jeune, the winemaker, says it is better than the 1989 or 1990 vintages.

This winery only produces this wine in the best years!

Aromas of cherries, blackberries, Provencal herbs, coffee, minerals, rhubarb, roses and smoked meat. Big flavors across the board - dark and red berries, dark chocolate, This wine is almost chewy in its weight and texture! Long, long finish with soft, supple tannins that compliment the ripe fruit at the finish. Food pairing - steak, lamb, roast beef, venison, duck, etc!

This is a wine I'd linger over with a good friend who enjoys wine and good food! I'd take 2-3 hours to enjoy this bottle!

You can lay this down and age this for years. Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 93-96 points

October 2007 Wine Tasting

The theme is


New World vs. Old World Wines


The Whites:

The first two whites are made from grapes that are closely related to one another - Spain's Albarino and Germany's Riesling. It's believed that Cistercian monks introduced Albarino to Galicia in northwesternmost Spain in the 12th century! Today, this winegrowing area in Spain is known as Rias Baixas; and, it is producing some of the best white wines, and white wine values, in the world!

Gran Vinum Nessa Albariño 2006 (Spain) $12.99 - This is delicious! From a winery, Gran Vinum, that produces superb wines! Wonderful aromas of peaches, pears, citrus, flowers and minerals. Flavors of white peaches, minerals and a wonderful, zippy acidity that has a little saline quality to it! It's medium-bodied and dry. Estate grown grapes. Stainless steel fermentation. Aged 1 month on lees to soften the texture. This is from our favorite Spanish importer, Aurelio Cabestrero. In 1993, he was named the best sommelier in Spain. Food pairing - Great paired with fresh Maine seafood, especially shellfish! Wine & Spirits, 90 points; Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 88 points

Slatestone Dry Riesling 2004 (Germany) $13.99 - This is a great sipping wine! One of our favorite Rieslings! Loads of peach, nectarine and white orchard fruit aromas and flavors. Excellent minerality and acidity in the wine - the vines grow right in slate! This is a dry, refreshing, low-alcohol wine that is medium-bodied and a great wine with food or alone. 1,000 cases made. Food pairing - Goes well with fish, seafood, poultry & veal. Great with spicy foods or salty meats such as ham.

The second two whites are not really related to one another. What they share in common is that each is produced from an OBSCURE grape. The first is Is Jurancon Sec - it's made from Gros Manseng and is made in the extreme Southwestern corner of France; the second wine is a Scheurebe Kabinett; Scheurebe is the grape and the wine is from the Pfalz area.

Darting Scheurebe Kabinett Halbtrocken Durkheimer Fronhof 2006 (Germany) $18.99 - This is a Terry Thiese wine! If you know only one thing about German wines - know this - Terry Thiese is the leading and best importer of German wines! No one spends mores time in German vineyards and wineries than Terry Thiese! Wonderful wine! Hint of sweetness! Touch of spiciness - this is Scheurebe trait! Lots of fruit flavors and aromas - citrus, pink grapefruit, apricot and even blackberries. The spiciness is peppery. Crisp. Refreshing. Scheurebe (pronounced SHOY-ray-buh. Think Sigmund Freud {FROYd} - thanks for the hint, Tony!) is a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner - developed in 1956. Halbtrocken means "half- dry" or "off-dry." "Halbtrocken - more often achieves the right balance of fullness and bite," Hugh Johnson wrote in his Modern Encyclopedia of Wine. Food pairing - Great choice for a curry dish and other spicy Asian fare (the low alcohol level is refreshing and cleanses your palate and washes away the heat). Goes GREAT with ham! Wonderful Thanksgiving Dinner wine!

Clos Uroulat Cuvée Marie Jurançon Sec 2005 (France) $24.99 - This a unique AND fabulous wine! Clos Uroulat is imported by Martine's Wines. Both are among the best at what they do - make and import unique and tasty wines! LOTS, and LOTS, and LOTS of aromas and flavors! Leave this open and cycle back to it over an evening and your experience will change! And, that is what wine should add to your evening! Savor this! Don't rush through this wine! Aromas and flavors of baking spices, apples, marzipan, roasted almonds and vanilla. This is rich and lush! Great acidity! 90% Gros Manseng and 10% Petit Courbu. The grapes partially dried on the vine; same as with Sauternes. Hand-harvested. Aged in French oak barrels (almost none are new). A whopping 200 cases brought into the USA (that's 2,400 bottles). Food pairing - smoked fish, freshwater fish, seafood, ham, spicy Asian fare, paté and foie gras. Whatever you want to drink with this works! - me - I'm taking my bottle and heading for a comfortable chair and some good friends! Wine Spectator, 90 points

The Reds

For 2 of the reds, we are going to going to compare and contrast 2 red blends, one from France and one from Australia! Old World vs. New World! Duking it out! I prefer Old World wines most days and nights, but that doesn't mean I don't like a big, bold, in your face New World red when the mood strikes!

Mas Carlot "Les Enfants Terribles" Costières de Nimes Syrah & Mourvèdre 2005 (France) $14.99 - I LOVE this! This is made by a husband-and-wife team, Nathalie Blanc-Mares and Cyril Mares (they were the boy-and-girl next door as kids; the wine is jokingly named after their kids). Nathalie's family bought the property and restored it in the 1960's. Mas Carlot practices sustainable agriculture. Complex, robust, tasty! Aromas & flavors of rocky, mineral soil, leather, dark berries, dark plums, black cherries, anise, earth, smoke. Layers & layers - that's probably why it speaks to me so! Everything is well-put-together. Well-balanced. Medium-to-full-bodied. This screams & defines "terroir" - that sense of place that we think wine should have! Half is aged in new oak. Will drink well thru 2009-10. Food pairing - lamb with rosemary, beef, rich mushroom dishes, etc.

Fetish Wines "Playmates" Shiraz Mataro Grenache 2005 (Australia) $19.99 - Outstanding wine that is brand new to Maine! Made by one of Australia's star winemakers, Rolf Binder! The Fetish wines are exclusive to Joshua Tree Imports - these feature the best winemaking from some of Australia's greatest winemakers! Great aromas and flavors - lots going on in this wine! Blackberries, spices, licorice, anise, notes of earth and toasty oak! 89% Shiraz, 8% Mataro & 3% Grenache. 2,500 cases imported. Drink now through 2009. Food pairing - meat dishes, robust vegetarian dish, mushroom dishes, etc. Drinks great on its own! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 90-92 points; Wine Spectator, 88 points

For the other set of reds, we are pulling a wine from a "newer" area in Spain, Bierzo! Old World vs. New World! Duking it out! I prefer Old World wines most days and nights, but that doesn't mean I don't like a big, bold, in your face New World red when the mood strikes!

Luna Beberide Mencia Bierzo D.O.C. 2005 (Spain) $13.99 - This wonderful and a STEAL at this price! Bierzo is in northern Spain, near Galicia. Aromas of ripe cherries, spice and earth. Flavors of red and dark berries, graphite, pepper, and minerals. Well-balanced acidity. Long finish. Loads of what the french call "Terroir" - a wine that tastes of a place. Unoaked. Unfiltered. Mencia is the grape. It is local to the area. Another wine from our favorite Spanish importer, Aurelio Cabestrero. Food pairing - grilled meats, goat cheese, mushroom dishes, hearty foods. Drinks well on its own. Wine & Spirits, 91 points; Wine Enthusiast, 90 points; Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 89 points

Domaine de Pallus "Les Pensees de Pallus" Chinon 2004 (France) $18.99 - French winemaker, Bertrand Sourdais, first gained fame making highly acclaimed wine at Dominio de Atauta in Ribera del Duero. While wowing the wine world with these great wines, he wanted to return home to his native Loire Valley and his family's estate, Domaine de Pallus and make wine from Cabernet Franc. 100% biodynamic farming. Wines are aged in 2nd use barrels from Chateau Haut-Brion. Chinon is 100% Cabernet Franc. The grapes from Sourdais's best and oldest vines go into this special wine! This is bottled without filtering or fining. This is one of those bottles that just evolves over time after you've opened it. Aromas of raspberries, black pepper, a little smoke, plums begin to open up. then flavors of red berries, white pepper, roasted nuts and more. This is an elegant wine - rather than an "in your face" wine! I like it A LOT! Food pairing - poultry and white meats. Lighter red meat dishes (veal). Fish with a red wine sauce.

The Dessert

Domaine de Beaumalric Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2005 (France) $18.99 - This winemaker's Beaumes de Venise is known for being fresh and elegant, rather than robust. Aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, peaches and apricots. Nice balancing acidity. Yummy! The grapes are harvested in October when fully ripe, but not overly ripe. The wine is made sweet by "arresting" the fermentation by adding distilled spirits before the yeast ferments off all the residual sugar. 100% Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. The Greeks may have brought this grape into France before the Romans conquered Gaul. This area is about 2 miles away from the famed Rhone winemaking area of Gigondas! Beaumes means "cave" or "grotto. This area sits adjacent to a line of cliffs below the Ventoux Mountains.

Piedmont Tasting - Barolo, Barbera and more!

The wines of Piedmont, especially Barolos, are world-renowned. This week, we will have 2 top winemakers from Piedmont here in Freeport showcasing their wines, Mauro Veglio and Gianfranco Alessandria. They are cousins and each of them leads a small winery.

This is a rare treat - we don't often get many winemakers in Maine - and it's rare to get two of the top Barolo producers here at the same time - we want to thank Ned Swain of Devenish Wines from helping put this together. These winemakers produce world-class wines!

The tasting is at the Hilton Garden Inn because Maine law only permits a retail store to have one wine tasting per month. There is a small fee, $10, to taste this flight of 6 wines - restaurants and bars are not permitted to give away alcohol in Maine. Bear in mind, 3 of these wines will retail for approximately $60/bottle - so, $10 is a small price to pay for an opportunity to taste such great wines!

The Hilton Garden Inn has a wonderful bar that is comfortable and a perfect venue for a small event such as this!

What will we taste?

2 Barolos, one Dolcetto, 2 Barbera d'Albas and a wine unique to only 8 winemakers in Barolo, L'Insieme!

We are thrilled and pleased that we can share these wines with you and offer you the opportunity to meet these two wonderful winemakers! The L'Insieme is a unique wine in the Langhe - it is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. Each year, 8 Barolo winemakers produce their own versions of L'Insieme....and at least $120,000 of the proceeds from the wine are donated to charities around the world. It is internationally known and respected as a wonderful, unique wine from Piedmont!

The Wines!
(you may buy any of these wines from Freeport Cheese & Wine)

Mauro Veglio Dolcetto d'Alba 2005 - $15.99 - Excellent wine! Aromas of plums, flowers, almonds and earth. Medium-bodied. Light, firm tannins. Medium-length finish. Drink now through 2008. 1,000 cases made.

Mauro Veglio Barbera d'Alba 2005 - $17.99 - a soft, ripe, medium-bodied red that tastes wonderful! Soft mouthfell. Easy-going wine with a lot of layers. Delicious. Flavors of passion fruit, red berries and minerals. Bright, fresh finish! Drink now. 700 cases made.

Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto 2000 - $59.99 - This is AWESOME with a capital "A." Aromas of blackberries, cherries, plums, eucalyptus, leather, flowers and spices. Full-bodied. Lots of intensity. Rich fruit and mineral flavors. Good tannic structure. Big, chewy and elegant! From a single vineyard in Monforte. 500 cases made. This wine will be long-lived and it is still a baby in terms of age. Should last through 2015, at least. Wine Spectator, 92 points; Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 90 points; Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, 91 points
Gianfranco Alessandria Barbera d'Alba 2005* - this is a delicious wine! Aromas of red and dark berries, earth and smoke. Medium-to-full bodied. Balanced acidity. Minerals on the finish along with fresh fruit. Drink now. 450 cases made.

Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo 2001* - Excellent wine! Aromas of flowers, spices, toasted oak and berries. Flavors of cherry, leather, anise, earth and tar. Firm tannins. Full-bodied. Chewy. Long and powerful. Juicy finish. Like most Barolos, this is just beginning to mature. Drink now - 2015. 300 cases made. Wine Spectator, 91 points

Gianfranco Alessandria L'Insieme 2003* - This is an awesome wine! Aromas and flavors of raspberries, licorice, mocha, chocolate and vanilla. Medium-bodied. Chewy tannins. Red and dark fruit and vanilla on the long finish. Blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon. 100 cases made.

*We will have prices for the Gianfranco Wines at the tasting (the Barbera is probably in the teens, the Barolo and the L'Insieme will be $60, give or take some money.

The Wines of Piedmont
Piedmont produces many wines - Barbera d'Alba, Nebbiolo Langhe, Dolcetto d'Alba, Barbaresco, Moscato d'Asti, and, of course, the legendary Barolo.

These wines all represent different styles of wine. Barbera d'Alba is generally lighter (but, some Barberas are big, full-bodied wines), with lots of bracing acidity, a zippy quality, often rustic notes and bright fresh fruit. Nebbiolo (the grape of the Langhe, Barbaresco and Barolo) produces wines that are often light in color, but powerful in terms of flavors and aromas. Nebbiolo, like Pinot Noir, is a grape that is very sensitive to terroir, and the smallest changes in soil, altitude, micro-climate, etc., will produce a significantly different wine.

In the 1980's, the legendary Elio Altare began the winemaking revolution that has brought Barolo to such prominence. As the years passed, he has mentored winemakers such as Mauro Veglio. Without Elio Altare, we wouldn't see such great wines from Barolo.
Our Winemakers
Mauro Veglio

Like most families in the Langhe, the Veglios were "contadino," or farmers, who sold their grapes to the local cooperative. That generally meant a great harvest equalled more grapes and quality didn't matter as much....they made wine...but, not a lot (and most was made for personal consumption)...the wines they made had to take a back seat to other farming tasks - harvesting the grain, olives, gathering firewood, etc.

Mauro and Daniela Veglio wanted to raise the quality of their grapes and their wines. At Elio Altare's urging, they did. In 1992, they started producing wines under their own label. Veglio studied well under Altare - as his Barolos are widely respected. They farm sustainably. To improve quality, they dramatically reduce yields in the vineyards. They built a new winery and began using better winemaking techniques. They utilize shorter maceration periods, rotor-fermenters, temperature-controlled fermentation & aging in French oak barriques. They make refined, elegant wines!

Gianfranco Alessandria

Gianfranco took over managing his family's farm in 1986, after the passing of his father. He continued the family's practice of selling off his grapes from the 5.5 hectares of vineyard land his father had amassed. At the end of the 1980's, at the urging of his cousin, Mauro Veglio, he began bottling small portions of his harvest. The first Barolo came with the 1993 vintage, which was awarded "Three Glasses" (the highest award), by Italy's leading wine publication, Gambero Rosso.

The new winery, which is attached to their home, was finished in 1996, and that was the first year of full production. While modernizing the facilities refined the winemaking, it did not change Alessandria's belief that the land of Monforte d'Alba and the vines are what produce the best grapes....so, like his cousin, he practices sustainable agriculture, minimizing his influence on the soil and land. He produces stunning wines!